This site and it's contents is the sole property of the site owner, Angie Kolifrath. Copyright @ 2007
Reproduction is strictly forbidden without the owner's permission.


Home
Fiber Studio
The Four Breeds of Angoras
French Angora Does
French Angora Bucks
Giant Angoras
Family Album
For Sale
Tips and Tricks
Visit My Rabbitry
Transport Information
Upcoming Shows
Links
E-mail






Basic Angora Care Info

Housing:
Because of their long wool and having to keep it clean, angoras do best in a all wire cage . Galvanized steel wire -14-16 gauge - Rabbit cage. Floor wire should be made of 14 gauge wire, with spacings 1/2 x 1 inch. Cages made of chicken wire and wood, or wooden hutches with solid wood floors do not work well with angoras, the bunny will get stained and dirty, and the hutch will be impossible to keep clean (wool stuck to the wood, etc.)
Cage sizes vary on the breed of the angora, smaller breeds (English and Satin) do well in a cage 30 x 30 inches, larger breeds (French and Giant) do best in a cage 30 x 36 inches. When in doubt, by the biggest cage you can afford and find a place for. 
Angoras need to be kept out of extreme heat, due to the added warmth of the wool. They do well in cold climates, but suffer in warm climates. They should not have to suffer through temps above 85 degrees. Heat stroke and heart attack are very likely in hot and humid conditions. Angoras, if kept outside in a hutch or Rabbitry, need to be kept out of the rain, away from bugs (especially flies and fleas) and should have shelter from the heat and extreme cold. Angoras do well inside a house or climate controlled garage, and will enjoy your company. Fans, frozen pop bottles, A/C and keeping the wool clipped short in summer will help to avoid  heat problems.
Many Rabbit supply companies will sell cage kits with on line catalogs and will ship via UPS, such cages are build to last a long time and can be outfitted to be indoor cages or outdoor cages. Cages purchased from these manufacturer's are made from quality wire, and are often cheaper then pet store cages or " designer Rabbit cages ". 
One word of caution about multi level cages for large breeds :  a large breed Rabbit  can hurt itself fatally if it jumps or falls from an upper level of a designer cage.  Toenails and toe's can get caught in the ramp wire. For a larger Rabbit, a large single level cage with plenty of floor space to move about is the best type caging and much safer.  

Food:
All Angora Rabbits require special attention to food, they have to maintain a healthy body with good bone and muscle besides growing good quality , healthy wool. All Angoras do best on a top quality Rabbit pellets, fed fresh daily, a pellet that contains an appropriate amount of protein ( 16 -18 % ) and a higher amount of fiber ( 18 % and above) plus included vitamins, amino acids and minerals. Some pellet brand contain beneficial lactobacillus, yucca shingera for ammonia reduction, and papaya for better digestion. Purchasing freshly made pellets is important- always purchase a brand that has a date stamps as to the day it was made, and feed these pellets within 4 months of the day they where made. Most good quality pellets will have lost their value within that time, and stay away from store brand pellets that claim to stay fresh for 2 years or more ...... too many added chemicals to make them stay palatable for such a long time.
Feed requirements depend on age of the bunny, it's breed and breed weight - consult the breeder of your bunny for the appropriate amount of pellets to give. in general, English angoras require 3/4 cup of pellets , while Giant Angoras generally get 1 1/2 cup of pellets, the bigger the bunny, the more food it requires to stay healthy. Baby rabbits up to the age of 5 months should be " free fed ", offer it fresh pellets twice a day and let it eat as much as it wants to. At 5 months of age, cut back to one daily ration, and feed fresh pellets once a day, same time every day.  Remove left over pellets from the day before.
Consult your breeder  at time of purchase about the best pellet to feed to your bunny, and try to stick with the same brand the bunny grew up on. If it works for the breeder and his / her family of angoras, it should work well for you and your bunny.
NEVER switch brand of pellets from one bag to another every time you go shopping for fresh food.  Switching pellet brands and protein content can greatly upset the Rabbit's digestive system.  Always mix 5 days worth of  old brand pellets with the new brand pellets, IF you have to switch pellet type.
HAY plays an important role in an angora's diet, for added roughage. Hay provides something to nibble on, helps with boredom during the day  and helps to prevent wool block during the molting season. How often to feed hay and how much should be discussed with the breeder of your bunny.
WATER plays a very important role in your Angora's diet. With all of the dry food to eat, it will need plenty of fresh cool water to drink in order to properly digest. Angoras do best with a commercial, 32 ounce water bottle attached to it's cage, to keep the wool dry.
Fresh fruits and vegetables can be given in moderation- these should not make up the majority of the diet, since they do not contain enough protein to sustain an angora. However, I offer fresh fruits and vegetables and herbs to my bunnies 1-2 times a week, for the beneficial ingredients found in each item. Bananas, for example, contain potassium. Parsley boosts the immune system and has a lot of calcium. I do not have to add vitamins to the drinking water.  Again, consult with the breeder of your bunny, and get a list of vegetables they might feed. IF introducing a new fruit or vegetable, try a very small portion of it for a day or two, and monitor the fecal output for signs of diarrhea.

Grooming:
greatly depends on the health of your bunny, it's housing, it's bloodlines and overall quality.
All angora owners should receive a grooming lesson from the person they buy the angora from. At the very least, each angora should receive a good brushing with a cat sized slicker brush once a week, all over it's body, and should have it's toenails clipped every 2-3 weeks. The belly has to be brushed, and the private area has to be kept clean and matt free.  Depending on your individual bunny, some need brushing daily to keep the wool matt free. Others need a brushing once a month and look great. It's important to know how to brush properly to separate the coat. Check your bunny daily with your hands to locate areas where the wool might start to tangle. Brushing before it turns  into a big mat is the most important part of grooming. Grooming also includes harvesting the wool from the bunny when it starts to shed/ molt. Angoras molt / shed old wool to make room for the new coat growing in. Ignoring this molting process, which  all Angora Rabbits have inherited, will cause major health problems ( wool block ). It will also cause the old wool to matt up with the new growth, making it almost impossible to groom the bunny and prevent matts. Consult the breeder of your angora bunny for their preferred method of wool harvesting. Some breeders have bloodlines of bunnies that require clipping of the wool with scissors. Other breeders have bloodlines of bunnies that pluck easy. Plucking is a term for removing the wool by gently pulling it off of the bunny's skin. 
 As to the common question: "How often will my bunny molt?" ask the breeder of the bunny. Each bloodline and each breed varies in that aspect, some bunnies molt every 3 month, others molt once a year. Only the breeder/ owner of the parents will know and can tell you  how often your baby will molt.
Cage cleaning, and having a proper cage is also an important part of grooming. If the cage is cleaned once a week at least, and the wire washed down, the bunny will stay much cleaner and will be easier to keep groomed.   ALL angoras do require some grooming and brushing, and the owner has to be able to make the time and commitment, otherwise a short haired bunny would be a better choice.
Last but not least- Angoras do not require an appointment at the Vet or groomer for a good grooming. When the new owner is instructed well by the breeder, an angora bunny should be no problem to groom.
Angora rabbits should  never receive a bath when in full coat. Angora wool is very difficult to dry and should be kept dry at all times. IF a bunny is soiled, a spot bath with a baby wipe or a wet wash cloth can be done. IF the mess is too big, remove all of the wool first with scissors, and wash the  bunny with a warm washcloth. NEVER  bathe  an angora bunny in a sink of water!!
Angora bunnies do not require shots from your Vet. However, in case Vet care is needed, it would be a good idea to have a rabbit savvy Vet on hand.
Parasite control is important to learn about when owning an angora. Ask the Breeder for recommendations. Rabbits can get fleas, worms, ear mites, ring worm, and fur mites from other companion animals such as your dogs and cats. Also from being in an environment where these parasites are common ( out in the yard, at a rabbit show, etc).